Review: The surprise at Santa Monica's hot spot Élephante? The carb situation is on point.

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Review: The surprise at Santa Monica's hot spot Élephante? The carb situation is on point.
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Élephante is the stereotypical L.A. scene: stunning people and stunning views. The food? Surprisingly delicious.

Restaurant critic Bill Addison pinpoints seven recent reviews, from a carnitas food truck to a tiny Japanese wonder, that illustrate the city’s amazing dining culture.Advertisement

Arrive by elevator to the rooftop restaurant, location on the third floor of a building two blocks from the beach. The rooftop restaurant sits on the third floor of a building two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach; ascend in an elevator, check in with the second round of hosts and take it all in. Stone and terracotta tiles accent the bars, cactus gardens fill corners, hanging Buhera baskets line the walls; your feet glide along on speckled terrazzo until you reach the stripy tigerwood that lines the deck. Gaze at the vistas from the Midcentury Modern lounge chairs that are back in style.

The most eye-catching bit of edible decor whizzes through the room in servers’ hands about every 90 seconds: whipped eggplant, arriving in a wooden bowl and often set on handsome stools placed near two-top tables as extra serving space. Nearly as light as whipped cream, the dip has enough astringency that you realize its vegetable origin: I’m thankful the restaurant didn’t try to brand it “eggplant hummus.

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