Review | This new fast-casual shop serves the gratifying Chinese wrap that beats anything from Chipotle

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Review | This new fast-casual shop serves the gratifying Chinese wrap that beats anything from Chipotle
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Review: This new fast-casual shop serves the gratifying Chinese wrap that beats anything from Chipotle

Spicy bean curd chun bing with sesame sauce, hot-and-sour potatoes and stir-fried eggplant at CB Chinese Grill in College Park. By Tim Carman Tim Carman Reporter focusing on national food issues; critic covering affordable and under-the-radar restaurants in the D.C. area.

It’s interesting to ponder why seemingly no one in the Washington area, until now, had thought of developing a fast-casual operation around chun bing. Maybe it’s simply a matter of ignorance. Maybe it’s because venture capital is not readily available to immigrants looking to launch such a business. The reasons don’t really matter much anymore, because we now have a fast-caz chun bing shop, and it’s called CB Chinese Grill.

Her operation is still a rough draft of a restaurant, at least cosmetically. Tucked between a Lotsa Stone Fired Pizza shop and a 7-Eleven, CB Chinese Grill relies on a banner that flaps in the breeze for its signage. The walls are decorated, if that’s the right verb to use, with chun bing T-shirts, unframed photos of the food and a couple of “fun trip” maps of China.

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