Review: Upper Kirby restaurant PS-21 offers white-tablecloth French dining in a relaxed mode
Low-key, stylish clientele of the sort you’d see at an art-gallery or museum opening.By smart, attentive young people who are eager to please.Tarte flambée; sardine rillettes; burrata salad; celeri remoulade; Crispy Salmon; confit chicken wings on marrowbone; foie gras terrine; steak frites with Bearnaise sauce; Grand Marnier soufflé.All clearly marked on the menu, along with keto and dairy-free items, as well as those with nuts. Eight vegetarian savory items; 4 vegan; 14 gluten-free.
As someone who can make a meal ordering off the left side of a menu, I love the way Schmit emphasizes shareable snacks suited to aperitifs, plus a half dozen more substantial first courses. So captivated was I by the sardine rillettes, the rough paste bouncy and oceanic in its own tin, that I promptly began Googling recipes for it on my return home.
Like most Houston foie gras terrines, PS-21’s is served with too much refrigerator chill. So order it first thing and let it sit on the table for at least a half hour to let it relax. Not so meticulously cooked salmon medallions clad in crisp sheets of brick pastry . They come with accoutrements that make the dish fun to eat: a bit of spring-green asparagus pesto here; a forkful of summery ratatouille there; an herbal vinaigrette sneaking around the edges. Would that the grilled mahi mahi showed such discipline, rather than the higgledy piggledy heap of braised vegetables, lemon confit and black garlic vinaigrette that all but obscured the mild, firm whitefish.
A couple of desserts — the Meringue & Pear, and the $20 apple Tatin flamed with Calvados — were too sweet for my palate. A delicate little Grand Marnier soufflé with clementine salad and crème Anglaise seemed angelic, though. And the tenderest, souffléed chocolate crepe, with a satin whoosh of chocolate fondant spilling out, had its own deep-dark charm.
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