From thrilling Japanese-Peruvian fare to a humble yet fragrant rice noodle roll, here are the stand-out New York restaurants of the year, according to EaterNY's chief critic qualityrye
, though Rick Easton doesn’t always make things simple. The shop can open an hour later than advertised, and the slices sometimes boast enough salt to jolt a hibernating polar bear. But at its best, the bread crackles and flakes with the fragile resistance of a croissant; the mozz oozes, and the tomatoes do their best savory impersonation of pure MSG.
, rich Javanese oxtail soup laced with cilantro. And he grills chicken satay with peanut sauce so softly that it evokes a rich Southeast Asian take on blanquette de veau.Stefano Secchi, an alum of Osteria Francescana, has given New York it’s best Italian restaurant since Lilia and a $90 pasta tasting as nuanced as a stratospherically-priced sushi omakase. Good luck getting in.Manhattan is practically swimming in omakase parlors.
the one I can’t stop thinking about is the smallest and humblest of then all. The tiny room at Yi Ji smells of rice as sweetly as a posh cookie shop smells of good cookie dough, while layers of noodles, sometimes laced with funky shrimp, exhibit no less complexity or firmness than tagliarini.If one were to look for an all-day restaurant so bright and white that it requires sunglasses, Nate Adler’s
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