'People profess to be terrified, and really what they are is lazy. Like, bro, you want scary? Deep fry it.'
to an opera’s aria. His palette is synesthetic, articulate, and daunting—especially for those of us who dwell firmly in the bodega’s prepared food aisle, who are perfectly happy, as Sifton puts it, “to eat from cans marked FOOD.” Despite his gift for rendering salads in kaleidoscopic, near-hallucinatory language, Sifton himself is quite a relatable figure.
As someone who regularly reads NYT Cooking’s weekly newsletter over clammy Trader Joe’s wraps, I was slightly nervous to discuss Thanksgiving—the ultimate, and really the only true feast intrinsic to American culture—with a person who once describedas “wildly flavorful—a bass line for baby beef, an alimentary subwoofer.”
I asked Sifton—emperor of the entree, gastronomy guru—to impart some Thanksgiving wisdom to the over-caffeinated urbanites with empty refrigerators among us. The result was the dose of Thanksgiving tough love we all need. Behold, Sam Sifton’s take on the symphonic textures, flavors, and perspectives that best serve us this holiday.If you think about what Americans really like to eat, it’s things that are sweet, salty, spicy, and crisp.
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