The kitchens of Kala Ghoda's famed Blue Synagogue play host to thatdoggonelady as she spends the evening with Chef Moshe Shek and Clera Lobo learning about Mumbai's Jewish community and their unique food cultures. FoodIssue YouAreWhatYouEat NewIssue
Mumbai is home to three Jewish sects: the Bene Israel, Baghdadi Jews and Cochin Jews, and each can trace their arrival in India back to centuries ago. The first two reside mainly over here, though the Bene Israel arrived off the Konkan coast first. The Baghdadis came into India from the Middle East and settled in emerging commercial centres — Bombay and Calcutta .
Jewish law does not permit cooking on Shabbat, so traditionally cooks would prepare meat and bean stews in heavy pots the day before and allow them to simmer in ovens overnight. The dish would be fully cooked by mealtime. Baghdadi Jews prefer eating chicken, so the bird features in several dishes. It’s in the kubbah — a ball of minced chicken, celery and onion, covered in semolina and cooked in a spicy curry or soup, with vegetables. Every Shabbat meal has a kubbah: the stuffing is the same, vegetables change according to the season. To make the kubbah, Clera prepares a paste of raw rice and water, forms a ball and stuffs it with the chicken mixture. “It’s a dish that goes well with everything.
In my honour, Moshe decides to try making the Goan poee . Goa is a favourite destination; he usually visits it once a year and if he had been given the chance, he would have settled down there. “Every time there was a menu change in the restaurants, I used to pack my bags and my notebook, go to Goa and sit and think. I took a week to myself. It always helped,” he says. Today, that notebook includes a recipe for poee. He measures out the ingredients and starts kneading the dough himself.
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