The line between making genuine political statements and cashing in on the resistance has become murky.
Immediately following the 2016 election, designers filled runways around the world with political statements. From Planned Parenthood pins at nearly every show and powerful slogan T-shirts at Prabal Gurung and Dior, to a march of pussy hats down the runway at Missoni, and even the casting of the Women's March co-founders at Mara Hoffman, designers didn’t shy away from creating protests of their own.
Meaningful change is indeed something that a few designers this year set out to accomplish, most of them touching upon feminism and the current political landscape lightly. Tom Ford sent"Pussy Power" bags and shoes down his runway, Prabal Gurung staged a powerful finale of women linking arms as #MeToo founder Tarana Burke sat front row, while Calvin Klein's show was a dark, apocalyptic-take on the current state of American politics.
Alice + Olivia's Stacey Bendet, whose Fall 2018 presentation also incorporated an array of empowering female elements, echoed Chiuri's sentiment that designers should use their voice for social change."We are living in a time of turmoil and it is important for women to stand up, speak up, and ensure that our rights our protected.
Proving the power of such symbolism—that political runway statements don’t always need picket signs or overt feminist imagery—was Jonathan Simkhai. The New York designer, who has utilized T-shirts to advocate for Planned Parenthood in the past, made a subtler statement at his show this season, taking a less literal route by looking to feminist influences of the past, like Gibson Girls and Suffragettes, as major influences for his 2018 collection.
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