As the wise J. Kenji López-Alt says, trust in the crust.
But what about in the skillet or griddle? I cooked through a couple dozen burgers smashing at various stages during cooking in order to make sure. The results?When ground beef is cold, its fat is still solid and its juices are still held firmly in place inside small, chopped up segments of muscle fibers.
When you look at a burger under a microscope, you basically see what amounts to an interconnected network of proteins interspersed with fat and water-based liquids. Like all meats, as a burger cooks, this protein network tightens, squeezing out liquids. Simultaneously, the fat begins to render and liquefy, allowing it to be squeezed out right along with the other juices.
In a properly formed burger—one that is made with meat that's been ground properly and kept chilled and minimally handled while shaping—the protein matrix is relatively loose. Even once fat has been liquefied and juices have been squeezed out, they can remain trapped in the patty, only getting released when you bite into the burger, in much the same way that liquids can be trapped in a sponge and only released by squeezing.
All burgers will lose weight as you cook them—it's not possible to hold on to all liquefied fat and exuded juices. In my testing, four-ounce burgers that started as round pucks and were smashed down to a half-inch thickness any time before 30 seconds still lost a little over 20 percent of their weight while cooking. This was comparable to four-ounce burgers that were formed into 1/2-inch disks and cooked with no smashing at all.
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