Meet Spiral Theory Test Kitchen, a self-described queer cooking collective that embraces a playful, chaotic culinary practice.
, a three layer lemon fig lavender olive oil cake drizzled with black pine syrup—but their work taps into something that’s been missing from the greater culinary zeitgeist. In an era when chefs are increasingly optimizing their food for maximum Instagram posts, STTK pushes in the opposite direction: their creations are intentionally unwieldy, messy, and hard to encapsulate in just a few characters.
Spiral Theory’s upcoming dinner party is in collaboration with Los Angeles-based food arts non-profit Active Cultures, which posits that food is a vital form of cultural production, and aims to explore the historical underpinnings that arise from this approach. Active Cultures grew from a conceptual dinner party series titled The MSG Club, which was first founded by artist Glenn Kaino and L.A.
A fermented dried pig's heart that Okoyomon made in a similar style to a Nigerian chicken recipe they grew up with.The collective has another workspace in Okoyomon’s home kitchen in Bushwick, which Okoyomon says they’ve basically taken over. “There’s 300 ferments in the fridge. None of my other roommates cook anymore,” Okoyomon jokes as they arrange the dozen or so pigeons that they’re serving as a main course for the MSG dinner.
Okoyomon also worked as a prep and line cook at famed Chicago restaurant Alinea for two years while they were still in college, where the use of foams and balloons contributed to their perspective that “food can be whatever you want it to be.
Midway through their prep day, we sit in the living room to try out some of the Yoruba yam porridge that they’re testing for tomorrow. Much of what STTK makes is a “loving bastardization” of Okoyomon’s mother’s recipes—they view it as a kind of rebirth—and this one is no different. The porridge is a traditional Nigerian dish, the building blocks of which are cassava yam and what Okoyomon first describes as a basic tomato stew. Theodor scoffs at that descriptor.
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