“Spirits of the Passage” opened on Wednesday and will run though June at the GulfQuest National Maritime Museum of the Gulf of Mexico. Special events are planned for early March, after the city gets through Mardi Gras.
It’s a jarring thing, to look at bars of pitted iron lined up in a museum display case, and to know that they were meant to be traded for human lives.
What they’ll find is an experience that is as much about information as it is about artifacts. “Spirits of the Passage” provides a broad yet nuanced overview of the evolution of the Atlantic slave trade. Its timeline reaches all the way back to a 15th-century treaty giving Portugal the lead in trading with nations on the west coast of Africa, where internal slavery set the stage for the export of captives.
Somewhere between 13% and 33% of the captives shipped out died during the passage, visitors are informed: Most by illness, some by suicide, some during attempted revolts. Those forced to labor on Caribbean sugar plantations had a life expectancy of eight years. Viewing the shackles and other artifacts in Mobile, one can’t help but wonder if similar items will one day be recovered from the wreckage of the Clotilda and displayed in local institutions. “Spirits of the Passage” gives a taste of the powerful emotion they likely will carry. The exhibition features a panel on the Clotilda and another on the legacy of Africatown.
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