The horchata you know is a lie...
“Does your horchata have dairy in it?” I asked after seeing a notice on the menu at the West Hollywood location of Guisados. The cashier said yes. A couple days later at La Playita Siete Mares in Silver Lake, I asked the same question and got the same answer. And then the same at Tacos 1986 in downtown L.A. After that third time, I started questioning whether I had been mistaken about my favorite agua fresca.
However, Jennifer Feltham, one of the owners of Sonoratown in downtown L.A., said, “Real horchata isn’t supposed to have dairy. But it’s easier, cheaper and involves less labor to use cow milk because you get that creamy texture without all the work of soaking, blending, then straining out the rice.”Feltham told me even though her prep cooks used to insist on using La Lechera — a popular brand of evaporated milk — to save money, she chooses not to include it.
Chichen Itza's horchata, lightly enriched with almonds and sweetened with both piloncillo and American-style brown sugar. Gilberto Cetina, chef at Chichen Itza in Historic South-Central L.A., told me his horchata never has dairy. “Horchata is like mole: Every family has their own recipe; every town has its own version,” Cetina said. “Our recipe is pretty traditional, using just rice, water, canela, and a mix of piloncillo and brown sugar.
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