Stuff Your Face With Roman Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes

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Stuff Your Face With Roman Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes
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Get stuffed, tomatoes.

, little takeout rotisserie spots that are often also pizzashops, where you can pick up some"by-the-cut" pizza as well as a roast chicken with rosemary-scented potatoes glistening with schmaltz on your way home from work.

I have eaten bushels worth of stuffed tomatoes in my day, but I had never actually made them myself, because as mentioned earlier, this is mostly a takeout dish in Rome. I scoured Italian cookbooks and cooking websites for recipes, and found a common, simple cooking procedure: The tops of tomatoes are cut off, their guts are scooped out and passed through a food mill and stirred together with raw rice, minced garlic, and chopped basil.

It was clear that the simplicity of this cooking method sounds great in theory, but doesn't work in practice. Along with all of the textural issues, it was hard to fill the tomatoes with similar amounts of rice after they'd spent time soaking in the tomato pulp. The flavor was off, too: The rice in a good pomodoro al riso is stained a deep rusty red color, with the tomato pulp cooked to an intense, savory sweetness, reminiscent of a Spanish.

With the potatoes in the oven, it's time to work on the tomatoes. Lop the tops off of six beefsteak tomatoes that are just shy of being fully ripe . Use a paring knife to carve out the insides of the tomato, and scoop out the pulp with a spoon, making sure to leave enough flesh around the skin so that they don't collapse.

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