.CFDA honorees Aurora James and Dapper Dan discuss inclusivity and change
But whether acknowledged by the industry or not, Dan and James are two of fashion’s most fearless and resilient creatives. Both have launched independent businesses, weathered personal and professional hardships, and come out as advocates for change—and they are only getting started. James’s Fifteen Percent Pledge has done tangible financial work to bring Black businesses to a larger market.
I sense a strong feeling of insecurity in those who control the fashion industry now. They are not comfortable with the change that’s taken place. They know there has to be a change, but I don’t think they’re quite comfortable with it yet. When you offer them ideas about what change should look like in fashion, they seem to gravitate toward whatFor everyone that’s taken the pledge—28 businesses and counting—there are a lot who haven’t.
There is an emotional side that comes with it as well, but that is a lifetime journey. Black people are not a monolith. Everyone’s going to need their own sort of reckoning, their own sort of healing, and their own sort of discovery. What I’m just hoping for is more autonomy for Black business owners who want to support their own Black communities, so that we can gain more independence in this country.
I take the buses; I take the trains; I sit on the corner and talk to people even though I know they can’t afford luxury fashion. I stay motivated through them, through knowing that they are there for me and always will be there for me.I think in my case, staying motivated is just knowing how hard it’s been at different points for me. I still own 100% of Brother Vellies. That was not a choice. It is because no one was ever willing to really place a bet on me.
I created the Pledge because someone was talking about another brand and said, well, they love Black people. They donated $2 million to the NAACP. Black people spend more than that in the first hour on any given Tuesday that most major retailers are open! A donation is not love. That’s not respect. That’s a slap in the face. We really have to raise the bar. Black people work really hard for their money. The data is there. We know what Black women’s pay is compared to white men.
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