A day at the greenmarket — and an incredible staff meal — with Brooks Headley
Brooks Headley and his Superiority Burger team sample some of the new breakfast dishes they plan to serve at the restaurant’s future home. Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland It’s 8:21 on a crisp September morning at the Union Square Greenmarket, and Brooks Headley, chef-owner of the East Village’s Superiority Burger, is already running late.
But he has submitted to our request because as much as he hates the poseurs, he does love the place. “No matter how tired you are, or frustrated, you come here and it all goes away,” he says. “This is the dream, going and buying all your own stuff from farmers you really respect and love. It’s the best.” The market and its vendors are the biggest influence on his daily specials: the seasonal salads and sides that make Superiority the best vegetarian restaurant in the city.
Headley shops at one or another Greenmarket location six days a week. “I don’t go on Thursdays only because there isn’t a market that’s open and close by.” He estimates that during the peak summer season, he gets 50 percent of the produce he uses at Superiority Burger from Greenmarket. When we ask him why so much when he could just get it all delivered from suppliers, he pauses as if to remind himself what he learned in the third grade: that there is no such thing as a stupid question.
We get hung up at Mountain Sweet Berry, where looking down at us from the bed of his truck, farmer Rick Bishop holds forth, as is his wont, on the sublime density of the German Butterball potato and the relative ripeness of Tristar strawberries picked from two different fields. The seminar winds down and we head back to the Sycamore stand to retrieve the various bags and boxes Headley and Steffey have stashed underneath a display table for safekeeping.
When talking to Headley, you’re struck by his perpetually deadpan, almost Jeevesian demeanor, but at the diner he seems practically bubbly. He’s like the proverbial kid in the candy store. Back in the dining room, he takes a position behind the cashier station. “Look at this,” he says.
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