Tasting: Three 18-year-old single malt scotch whiskies from Balbair, Speyburn and Old Pulteney. scotch singlemalt whiskey whisky
Old Pulteney is known by enthusiasts as “the maritime malt,” with its namesake distillery residing in the Highland town of Wick, Caithness, near the northeastern tip of the country—you can’t go much further north before you hit ocean and islands. As with other seaside malts, this is often said to infuse a certain sense of salinity and “sea air” into the barrels as they undergo their long maturation. The flagship Old Pulteney 12 Year is a solid value that can often be had in the U.S.
On the palate, I’m getting more of the same baked fruits, along with an earthier quality that is more heather than peat—this is not a smoke-forward Highland dram. Cinnamon spice meets light dried fruit and slightly vinous tones, but then make way for a surprising amount of oak/roast, which brings a notably bitter dimension to the finish, which is also moderately tannic.
On the palate, meanwhile, the Speyburn 18 makes its presence felt in the spice department in particular, drawing a quite different dimension of flavor from the Spanish oak than the Old Pulteney. Deeply caramelized notes of molasses, and a growing roast that evokes sweet espresso beans are buffeted by tons of spice notes, suggesting allspice-infused Christmas cookies.
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