Where to find tamarind brown butter anchovy toast, labneh with confit tomatoes, okra fries, mussels in beer broth, and grape pisco sours in San Juan
In San Juan, Puerto Rico, the fried alcapurrias and banana leaf-wrapped pasteles of comida criolla, the local blend of Indigenous Taíno, African, and Spanish ingredients and flavors, are everywhere. They are at the kiosks of Piñones and in the glossy restaurants of the city’s best chefs. But to come to Puerto Rico for only Puerto Rican food would be a disservice to the imagination.
This ever-growing dining and drinking scene has thrived despite ongoing crises both natural and political. The archipelago has been under the control of the United States since 1898, and colonial control has had long impacts on agriculture and culinary culture. Serving local produce requires commitment and relationships with farmers, and the same goes for seafood. Part of the Jones Act of 1920 requires all trade to be done on U.S.-owned boats staffed by U.S.
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