Where to find oyster mushroom choripan sandwiches, tempura-fried ají dulce peppers, smoked gouda croquettes, and a Negroni-flavored piragua in San Juan
In San Juan, Puerto Rico, the fried alcapurrias and banana leaf-wrapped pasteles of comida criolla, the local blend of Indigenous Taíno, African, and Spanish ingredients and flavors, are everywhere. They are at the kiosks of Piñones and in the glossy restaurants of the city’s best chefs.
This ever-growing dining and bar scene has thrived despite ongoing crises both natural and political. The archipelago has been under the control of the United States since 1898, and that colonial control has had long impacts on agriculture and culinary culture. Serving local produce requires commitment and the development of relationships with farmers, and the same goes for seafood and fishermen. Part of the Jones Act of 1920 requires all trade to be done on U.S.-owned boats staffed by U.S.
Alicia Kennedy is a San Juan, Puerto Rico-based writer. She is at work on a book about eating ethically for Beacon Press.
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