The Absolute Best Pizza in NYC, According to a Chef

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The Absolute Best Pizza in NYC, According to a Chef
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The absolute best pizza in NYC, according to a chef.

The quintessential New York slice is thin, but pliable enough that you can fold your slice to eat it. The crust is crispy but with a touch of springiness, the cheese is browned in spots from bubbling inside the hot oven, and the slice itself is large and wide. I’m a lifelong New Yorker, and when I conjure a picture of home, I see a folded slice of pizza, resting on a white paper plate that’s dotted with a few drops of orange pizza grease. It’s a beautiful thing.

There are hundreds of pizzerias in N.Y.C., and most of them share certain essential traits: Huge plastic shakers of dried oregano, granulated garlic, and chili flakes, dispersed unevenly among formica tables and booths. A faded poster in the window for Gino’s Italian Ices. A large pile of oily garlic knots under a glass display case. Bright red fruit punch and some kind of purple drink, forever cascading in an endless waterfall inside rectangular drink dispensers.

While the average pizzeria in New York is excellent, there are still some duds out there. There should be high turnover in a pizzeria, so if the slices look like they’ve been sitting out for more than a couple hours, just walk away. I’m also skeptical of a pale crust or cheese that looks too white. If the crust and cheese aren’t brown and caramelized, then that slice is probably not worth your time.

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