Some serious three-ingredient magic.
To tame the ramps’ bite, I sliced the white bulbs and sautéed them in a bit of oil, just until they started to take on some color. I combined the sautéed ramps in a bowl with the avocado and a healthy portion of yogurt. I hit it all with a good amount of salt—since both avocado and yogurt can handle a fair amount of seasoning—and stirred and mashed the mixture together until it was an almost-smooth sauce. I finished it off with the minced fresh ramp leaves.
The resulting sauce was vaguely reminiscent of both guacamole and French onion dip, but more intoxicating than both. In fact, once the fish had been eaten, my dining companions searched for other things they could scoop the sauce up with . I've made the sauce several times now. Usually, I swap out the ramps for scallions, which are far easier to find and still have both caramelize-able whites and crisp fresh greens. I also leave out the fish, because I realize now that this is as much a dip as it is a sauce—and it plays second fiddle to no one.
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