“Different misos are used for different reasons” based on the type and associated flavor profile, explains Maiko Kyogoku, the owner of New York City Japanese restaurant Bessou
Yellow, white, and red miso. Photo: Courtesy of retailers Miso, a fermented-soybean paste, is an incredibly versatile ingredient that can be used for way more than just soup. “Miso is produced by fermenting soybeans with salt and koji and sometimes rice, barley, seaweed, or other ingredients,” says Nick Kim, chef and partner of omakase restaurant Shuko. The result is a paste that is high in both protein and vitamins and packs a ton of flavor.
As with lots of cooking ingredients, finding the right miso comes down to personal taste, notes Takayama. So don’t be afraid to shop around before settling on the right brand. When looking for miso, several chefs we spoke to recommend hitting up a Japanese grocery store like Katagiri or Sunrise Mart, where you can find a “rainbow of different varieties,” according to Koyuga.
$15 at Amazon Buy $15 at Amazon Buy Best sweet white miso paste Ishino White Miso $30 Kyogoku also keeps saikyo miso paste, a sweeter white variety that originated in Kyoto, stocked in her kitchen. She says it’s “extremely smooth and will lend a creaminess to any dish,” but that it’s an especially lovely ingredient to use in winter-vegetable miso soups, salad dressings, and seafood marinades. “I love making Japanese-yam or daikon-radish-leaf miso soup with it when the temperature gets chillier.
$4 Buy at Mercato Buy Cold Mountain Light Yellow Miso Yellow miso is more fermented than white miso but still has a mild flavor. Both Kim and Masaru Kajihara, executive chef at Sakagura East Village, recommend using it in soups and sauces. Kim specifically likes the one from Cold Mountain, which is more readily available online. Kajihara’s favorite, from Shinsyuichi Miso Company, is harder to track down, but you may have luck finding it in person at a store.
$14 at Amazon Buy $14 at Amazon Buy Best barley miso paste Eden Foods Certified Organic Mugi Miso $13 If you’re familiar with the three basic types above and are looking for a new miso paste to try, JT Vuong, chef and co-founder of Yaki Tiki and the forthcoming restaurant Rule of Thirds, recommends a barley miso.
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