Tender greens and herbs gives this phyllo pie a subtle complexity.
I don’t know if it’s just me, but in the '90s, I saw a lot of spanakopita. I had never eaten it before, and yet for an entire decade it somehow became my go-to appetizer. Phyllo and spinach always lived in the freezer, allowing me to fold up a few triangles in a flash. The spanakopita I knew was brimming with watery spinach and overwhelmed by cheese, but it was easy and cheap, and it filled a buffet, so I kept making my guests suffer through it.
I chose a mix of fresh spinach, rainbow chard, arugula, and watercress for this pie, but feel free to keep it simple and use all spinach if you prefer. Any combination works, but I especially like the peppery arugula and watercress against the sweet, vegetal flavors of spinach and chard. To keep things simple, I instead massage the raw greens, which sufficiently wilts them and allows me to skip the precooking step. This also means I can fully brown the phyllo without worrying about overcooking the greens.
Trahanas is small, pebbly crumbles that look like grains or small pasta. It's made from a fermented porridge of grain and dairy, which is then dried and broken up into small, rice-sized pieces. Originally a way to preserve dairy in Greece, the Balkans, and the Middle East, it's still a popular addition to soups and savory pie fillings to absorb moisture and hold them together.
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