An Ottoman Ramadan tradition lives on - Here’s more on why one should not miss the melodious Enderun Tarawih prayer at Eyup Sultan Mosque in Istanbul
Framed by cypress and plane trees and bordering the waters of the Golden Horn stands a captivating destination, the Eyup Sultan Mosque, home to the tomb of Abu Ayyub al Ansari, one of Prophet Muhammad’s companions. On a recent afternoon, I visited this centuries old site, its historic and spiritual magnitude closely linked with the story of Istanbul itself.
Before long, the courtyard started to empty, with visitors making their way to the "meydan" or central square of the mosque. The delectable aroma of freshly baked “pide”, a special flatbread only made during the holy month of Ramadan, wafted out from surrounding bakeries, each one attracting crowds of people waiting in long lines in eager anticipation of the breaking of their fasts and the joy of sharing the warm loaves with their loved ones.
The Eyup Sultan Mosque takes on an even greater significance during this time as it is known for hosting a late-Ottoman Ramadan tradition, a special form of tarawih known as the “enderun” way of tarawih — attending it being the main purpose of my recent visit. Although the period following the foundation of the Turkish republic led the Enderun Tarawih to fall out of practice as it became discontinued in many mosques, the Eyup Sultan Mosque would remain among a handful of mosques across Türkiye to have kept this tradition alive.
In fact, his devotion to the mosque should come as no surprise as many others all over Türkiye share the very same love and devotion for the mosque, despite coming from different backgrounds and segments of society. And so, before the tomb of Abu Ayyub al Ansari as well as within the mosque, one witnesses people from all walks of life and differing backgrounds praying, in hopes that this visit to someone near and dear to the beloved Prophet, may aid in their prayers being granted by God.
Inside the mosque, as the muezzins’ chants echoed around its columns and dim light emanating from the lanterns hanging from the domed ceiling formed a halo above those in deep prayer, it was almost as though one was transported to another era.The call to the prayer was then poignantly proclaimed in the Hijaz maqam, known for engendering feelings of humility.
It wasn’t just the maqams that were deliberate, however; so too was the recitation of the verses. While some were in the form of direct prayers, others were from the chapter “The Compassionate” — or verses that began with the proclamation, “Oh, those who believe” — all of which engendered a sense of unity and harmony amongst those praying. Some of the verses were also unique in that they had a rhyming quality, adding to the musical nature of the practice.
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