Jenn Harris this week recommends her new favorite fried chicken, an old gastropub burger and a falafel wrap in Orange County.
My current obsession is the fried chicken from Maxwell Chicken Rice, a stall at the recently openedin the San Fernando Valley. The compact food hall features exclusively Asian vendors with a Thai restaurant, a Japanese sushi spot and a ramen stall in addition to Maxwell. The north wall is covered in a giant photograph of a hawker center in Singapore.
I scraped my fork over the golden shell like I’ve seen countless TikTokers do in videos, offering an audible validation that the skin is superlatively crisp. The rice-flour-based dredge gives the chicken a delicate, brittle skin. It also makes it gluten-free.This is what I like to call drippy chicken. The juice, pent up under the skin, drips from the meat. It’s not overly complicated or flavored in any particular way. It’s just good fried chicken.
The burger comes on a soft French roll brushed with garlic butter. It soaks up the meat juice and holds its composure. It’s the sort of sandwich I rush through. It’s the way the falafel warms the wrap from the inside, melting the tahini, wilting the lettuce and softening the chopped tomato. It’s the tangy diced pickles and the thin, chewy pita bread that never quite gets soggy.The Mideast eatery has been on a bumpy road since a family tragedy, but it now seems back on track.
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