The little-known California sake you didn't know you needed

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The little-known California sake you didn't know you needed
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Yoshihiro Sako’s mission with Den is similar to that of many upstart wineries in California and beyond: to create a hyper-local, small-batch drink that speaks to the place it was made.

When I ask Yoshihiro Sako of Den Sake Brewery whether his first love was wine or sake, he answers slowly, as if it were a trick question. “Sake.” Then, with a smile: “Of course, that’s what I should say.”

Despite its tiny scale, Den has made the lists of exciting restaurants around California, including Shibumi in downtown Los Angeles, Izakaya Rintaro in San Francisco, Soba Ichi in Oakland. In February, Sako was named a James Beard semifinalist for the wine, spirits, or beer professional award. “I like to pair Den with green vegetable sauces: pesto, olive oil, chimichurri, gremolata. A tomato sauce is a good match too because my sake has higher acidity than other sakes.” Because of the way Sako manipulates the mash temperature before fermentation, Den often has twice the acidity of traditional Japanese sakes, which helps it stand up to a wider range of foods.

“But for sake making, it’s a little bit different. It’s more about technique, about people controlling the process.” This makes sense on a scientific level: Grapes, because they contain sugar, can interact with naturally occurring molds and yeasts in the air to spontaneously ferment into wine. Rice, by contrast, does not have natural sugars; a sake brewer must add a specialized fungus called koji to convert the rice’s starch into glucose, which then gets fermented into alcohol.

After taking a tour of Rue & Forsman with Bosworth, Sako knew that he wanted to work with the farmer, even though the ranch doesn’t grow a sake-specific rice variety. “Yoshi appreciated what we were doing, the unique character of our rice, and our ability to identity-preserve the rice through the supply chain to him.”

“At most drying facilities, you’re not going to have your own little silo for ‘Bob’s Farm’ and ‘Jim's Farm,’” Bosworth explains. “They’re just going to put it all together, trying to do things as efficiently as possible.” But Bosworth bypasses this entirely: He purchased his own drying facility with 15 different small silos, and he manages all of his own distribution.

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