Along with a digitalized and literal visual feast, the Costume Institute will feature soundscapes and scents into the spring exhibition.
As another sign of the demystification and humanization of fashion, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute drew back the curtain on its inner chamber Tuesday morning with a walk-through about its spring exhibition “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.”Nearly two dozen media types were ushered into the Costume Institute’s library, where its namesake supporter and Condé Nast’s Anna Wintour personally introduced herself and greeted each one with a handshake.
Nature is the throughline in the collection, Bolton said, “as well as a broader metaphor fashion in terms of fragility, ephemerality, renewal, rebirth and regeneration.” The elaborate satin gown suffers from “warp loss” on the bodice and skirt, and therefore cannot be displayed on a mannequin so it will be shown flat in “Sleeping Beauties.” It will also be brought back to life with technology with a CGI version of the dress that will be presented as a hologram — a fully embodied version of the dress floating about the actual garment like an ectoplasmic soul.
As an added dimension, the plan is to project an animation map of the embroidery onto the gallery’s walls and emboss them so that visitors can actually feel the embroidery, including the flowers blooming and bees buzzing.scent. While the original is stored in the Dior archives, the house is remaking a miniature version that The Met will recast in another material — porcelain was ruled out — so that people can feel the outline of the dress and the embroidery.
Another expected showstopper is a Madeleine Vionnet black tulle evening dress adorned with black raptor motifs. Noting how in Jungean psycho-analysis black birds are signs of death and destruction, Bolton said the fact that the designer used them just before the outbreak of World War II was ominous. Met attendees will also find a swarm of black birds projection-mapped onto the walls and hear their squawking to relay a sense of fear.
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