The new steakhouse catering to the young and wealthy — in a conflict zone
The owner of the new Kabul restaurant came bounding down the stairs, his hair in a short ponytail and his pant legs rolled up to show off his brown leather loafers, looking like a 2000s-era Johnny Depp.
Growing up across the Durand Line in the Kurram Agency, Totakhil led a very different life to the one he lives today, as owner of the Cabul Meat House. Totakhil's first restaurant in Kabul's so-called green zone specializes in Mexican-style fare, while the Cabul Meat House focuses almost entirely on proteins.But just as reading made led him toward jihad, it also later turned him away from violence.
Although the high prices mean his own restaurant caters to a wealthy clientele, since its opening last week, Totakhil has managed to create an establishment that welcomes locals. "My father was obsessed with meat, we weren't rich at all, but every day we would have meat for at least one meal," Totakhil explained. It was his childhood diet that led him to a lifestyle free of red meat."He fed me so much meat when I was a kid that I think it just made me hate it," he said.
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