Does yours have the squirrel in it?
in New York City. Every couple of weeks Slotnick sees someone examining one of the copies she has on the shelf, sometimes asking a question about a specific edition. If they’re looking for a copy of the—as it’s casually referred to by aficionados—to give as a gift, usually the copy that the gifter is after is the one his parents had.Photo by Joshua Loring
The book’s history begins with Irma Rombauer. She was in mourning after her husband’s suicide. It was the Depression, she had barely any savings and no career. To cope with grief, and attempt a living, she decided to make a cookbook. At that point, Rombauer was not known as a cook. “Worst idea I ever heard of,’ was the consensus,” writes Anne Mendelson, quoting Rombauer’s brother’s family inillustrator Marion Rombauer Becker. “Irma’s a TERRIBLE cook,” they concluded.
, a collection of recipes from friends and family was self-published in 1931 at 395 pages, using a huge chunk of what was the last of the family money—3,000 copies for $3,000. Today you’d be lucky to get just one of that original printing for the same amount of money.After the first trade edition, published in 1936, there has been a new edition roughly every decade as the family attempted to account for the changing world of available ingredients, kitchen appliances, food safety, and trends.
and advises on the correct size pan for each cake recipe. The 1943 edition gave space for wartime rationing. In 1951, new appliances like blenders and freezers came into the picture and therefore, into the book.There are a few notable divisions in edition Joy-ist loyalty. There are the Irma v. Marion camps, for one. When Irma Rombauer fell ill, and then after her death in 1962, Marion Rombauer Becker revised alone, and , some say, just couldn’t replicate her mother’s wit.
However. What Rombauer Becker did bring was an attention to detail, interest in whole grains and health foods, and a desire to make theencyclopedic. Enter the squirrel illustration. Rombauer Becker wanted it to be a “deserted island cookbook” as her heirs would say—able to address even the possible lack of a butcher. The gruesome yet sadly hilarious squirrel illustration came along in the ’50s, preceding an expanded chapter about cooking game .Another edition with the poor squirrel.
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