Fried chicken is a crucial component of Black American foodways, especially in the South and Lowcountry region. Here's the late Emily Meggett's recipe.
a Lowcountry chef and Gullah cultural bearer who has been deeply influenced by Meggett’s culinary knowledge and intellect. As someone who has stopped by her home on Edisto Island — one of South Carolina’s Sea Islands — to learn and enjoy a plate of Lowcountry food, Dennis remains captivated by not only the crisped exterior of the matriarch’s perfectly battered and fried chicken, but also by the tradition that’s preserved within each and every bite.
“When you do the math and connect those dots, [cooks like Meggett] held on to the traditions that we’re talking about, at a minimum, 100-plus years,” says Dennis. “I think it’s really important because you’re getting not only a legacy, but a history lesson with something as simple as fried chicken.” Like countless other Black women who turned to cooking — and fried chicken specifically — as a vehicle for economic opportunity, Meggett has been able to use her fried chicken, along with dishes like fried fish, red rice, and chicken perloo, to forge her own path in South Carolina’s culinary space.
For Meggett, the best fried chicken continues to be made by Black hands. “There are so many ways to enjoy fried chicken,” she says. “Our community has figured out how to make the chicken shine.” Meggett is eager to teach her guests her “paper bag method,” instructing them, “You’ve got to hold the bag from the bottom!”
While Meggett’s instructions are vital, it’s always the story behind the food that matters most to her. “When I was growing up, everybody had fried chicken — everybody,” she recalls. “You didn’t even have to go to the store for it. Folks raised their own in those days, and they knew how to clean it, cook it, and serve it. We looked forward to it in those days; we look forward to it now.”
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