.hels on the Boulevardier, a classic cocktail dating back to the 1920s, made with whiskey, Campari, and vermouth.
Contrary to popular conception, Thanksgiving is a holiday not of turkey and side dishes and pie but of lubrication. It would be enough on its own to have a dozen people over for dinner; it would be enough on its own to plan and execute a multipart meal built around a disorientingly massive bird; it would be enough on its own to spend half a day or more in intimate social proximity to one’s family, natal or chosen, plus wild-card oddments of new girlfriends and old neighbors.
The Boulevardier is one of those intensely well-documented cocktails, with a pedigree that runs longer than that of some racehorses. Erskine Gwynne, a wealthy young American who fluttered about Paris between the World Wars, was probably not the first person to mix whiskey with Campari and vermouth, but he was the first to have the recipe written down with his name next to it.
Like many books of its type and era, “Barflies and Cocktails” is peppered with advertisements, including a full-page notice for, on the second-to-last page. It proposes an impish recipe of its own, with the ingredients running in a vertical list and their initial letters emphasized: “Bacardi, Orangeade, Uranite, Lemonade, Evian, Vodka, Absinthe, Rhum, Dubonnet, Ink, Egg nogg, Rye.
It really is all that—it’s heady and deep, a woodsy cloud with a bitter edge, the flavor transforming on the tongue into something spicy and bright. It’s also strong as hell; its only nonalcoholic components are ice, a twist, and a glass. Since Gwynne’s day, the straightforward one-one-one ratio has evolved into two parts whiskey to one part each of Campari and vermouth, which more evenly balances out Campari’s sticky sharpness and gives the whiskey more room to roll around.
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