Extra-tall and extra-crisp Yorkshire puddings, thanks to science.
, it comes down to the breakdown of proteins and starches over the course of the overnight rest. Here's an excerpt of my explanation in cookies, which applies to puddings as well:
By resting the dough, you give the deconstruction phase a head start. It's as if you left your LEGO castle sitting out overnight and your annoying little sister came by and smashed it all, King of Tokyo-style. With the pieces separated, building your spaceships is much faster. Resting makes a big difference in the interior texture as well. With little gluten development, the interior of a Yorkshire pudding baked right after forming the batter is almost cake-like, with small bubbles and not much stretchiness. A pudding baked after an overnight rest has a stretchy texture with large bubbles inside. In most cases, you'll end up with the ideal case: a Yorkshire pudding that is essentially one large bubble in the center. Perfect for holding gravy and drippings.
I wondered if using soda water might help create an even lighter, crisper pudding. It works wonders in thin batters like tempura—the extra bubbles give it a much lighter texture. With a Yorkshire pudding, the results are not so hot. The fact that the batter is heavily beaten and rested eliminates all the bubbles the soda brings to the party. The batter rises just about the same amount as with regular water.
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