Oscar-nominated costume designer ariannephillips worked with ITSJEREMYSCOTT to upcycle her 2012 Academy Award dress into a custom Moschino gown for this year’s red carpet.
, she knew immediately who would design her dress. “Jeremy Scott, who is a very old friend, had asked if he could do it even before I knew I was up for an Oscar,” she said. As the co-founder of RAD , a philanthropic initiative that uses the red carpet to promote various charitable causes, Phillips also knew that she wanted to use this moment to talk about an important issue: sustainability in the fashion industry. “I love fashion and it’s my business,” she said.
Phillips is a big proponent of re-wearing and recycling vintage clothing—a position that comes naturally to her as a fashion designer. Most of the clothes used in Tarantino’s film, which was set in 1969, were drawn from vintage dealers around Los Angeles. “In terms of creating texture and tone in a period film, it’s important to amass a vintage stock, whether it’s for creating a new design or a refurbished design.
Scott suggested that they recycle one of Phillips’s dresses that had a story. She suggested using the dress she wore when she won an Oscar in 2012 for her work on Madonna’s. “That dress is my favorite dress I’ve ever worn in my whole life,” Phillips said. “I designed it with Juan Carlos Obando and it was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli, a designer whom I learned a lot about while I was working on that film as she was a favorite of Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor’s.
After weeks of back and forth and multiple sketches, what transpired was an X-ray, upside-down version of the original Oscar gown, with the same color story but a very different vibe. “Arianne is a punk rocker at heart so pushing color was a challenge as she loves black,” said Scott. “I came up with the idea of a long, hot pink moiré skirt—a fabric that is part of my upcoming collection in Milan—but I shrouded the skirt in black tulle so it would tone down the color.
“It’s really exciting to see that this dress is going to have a second life after sitting in my closet for eight years,” said Phillips as she left her final fitting. “And the story behind it is not just about the fashion industry needing to do better for the sake of the planet, but also my own story. Just like a bride wearing something old, the fact I am wearing a piece of the dress I won in makes it my own personal talisman.
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