The Underground Gourmet’s Best Outdoor Dining in New York

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The Underground Gourmet’s Best Outdoor Dining in New York
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Presenting our ranking of the best things to eat alfresco in New York and where to eat them

A little bit of everything at Queens Night Market. Photo: David Williams for New York Magazine Food tastes better outdoors. No one really knows why.

Randazzo’s sauce . Photo: David Williams for New York Magazine Randazzo’s speaks Italian with a Brooklyn accent, so calamari is “galamah,” as the servers’ T-shirts proclaim.

A summer-in-the-city ritual like no other: You step up to the blue-and-white-awninged stand, an incongruously beachy year-round setup. You read the old sign behind the counter, “We do not mix or exchange ices,” and wonder who would try to return a $2 half-licked Italian ice? Then you choose from a handwritten menu of 50 flavors. If you’re a traditionalist, you pick lemon, if you’re in the know, you go for peanut butter.

Provisions: A whole roast chicken, cut into picnic-friendly pieces, comes with one side: You want the yuca or the potato salad. Also great for a Poolside picnic: octopus salad. Provisions: The U sandwich, so named for its curved shape and neatly stuffed with spicy pork, chicken, or our current favorite, marinated lamb with cabbage and pickled onions. The place is mostly takeout, so it’s all eminently portable, and if you need an infusion of vegetable matter with your Changified street meat, get a side of sesame-sprinkled shishitos.

Provisions: The spécialité de la truck is a groaning, $10 tinfoil platter of juicy chargrilled chicken breast served with fluffy yellow rice, a crisp romaine salad, and a good drizzle of homemade tzatziki over the whole shebang. Provisions: Pasteles made according to Valdez’s family recipe combine white yautia, green plantains, and green bananas in the dough, which is studded with beef or chicken, wrapped in plantain leaves, tied with string, and boiled until set. Supplement with a spinach empanada encased in a flaky “integral” crust.

Photo: David Williams for New York Magazine Since we last dropped by Roosevelt Deli Grocery Corp., management spruced up the joint, replacing a cramped shelf or two with spiffy new tables and chairs. These, alas, are for the benefit of customers filling out Lotto slips, not those partaking of the excellent seafood antojitos that emerge from La Esquina del Camarón Mexicano, the independently run hidden kitchen that Pedro Rodriguez rents in the back of the bodega.

The Ur-frankfurter at Nathan’s . Photo: David Williams for New York Magazine It’s true: The line is murder and the high-season mob extra-mobby. And old-timers tell you the orangeade ain’t what it used to be. Why you go anyway: because nothing enhances the flavor of a snappy, all-beef, natural-casing frankfurter like salt air and the clickety-clack suspense-ascent of a vintage roller coaster.

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