The sweet, custardy pawpaw is a national treasure we should all be eating more of, according to foragers and food activists.
visited her grandparents’ house in Muskogee, Oklahoma in early autumn as a child, she would accompany her grandmother on foraging hunts. The treasures they were looking for? Pawpaw, the largest edible fruit native to North America.of Oklahoma, decided five years ago to plant a grove of the fruit trees in her family garden in Baldwin City, Kansas. After gathering seeds from the woods near her house, she sowed and cultivated them into seedlings she could plant.
“I have tried to emulate what my grandparents had, and what their ancestors had, prior to being removed in the 1830s,” explains Mihesuah, referencing thethat forced 100,000 Native Americans living east of the Mississippi River to relocate westward to what is now Oklahoma. There, displaced tribes could no longer find many of the foods that were familiar to them, including pawpaw.
This native fruit, which is rich in vitamin C and iron, might look like a squat potato, but it tastes sweet and tropical—as if a banana, pineapple, and mango were mixed together and spiked with vanilla. Though it grows wild in 26 states , “I can't tell you how many people have never heard of pawpaws, never tasted a pawpaw,” says Mihesuah. Pawpaw has a short fruiting season and even shorter shelf life.
Casey Roe, a North Carolina forager, has also been touting the fruit’s nutritional and culinary merits. Since 2017, she’s been on a crusade to convince restaurants in and around Durham to add pawpaw to their seasonal menus. Early in her campaign, the vast majority of the chefs she approached had never heard of the fruit.
Roe says she’ll continue waving the flag for pawpaw until the fruit gets the recognition it deserves—even if it takes a while. Although at least 16are held each year around the country, the fruit is still an enigma for most Americans. Most likely, not even everyone who lives inFor those lucky enough to find fresh pawpaw or source it frozen, the fruit can be incorporated into all sorts of dishes, from refreshing smoothies to ice cream.
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