Little Women costume designer Jacqueline Durran wanted to bend the audience’s ideas of what they might consider gendered Victorian style.
“She wanted to go and fight in the Civil War. She wanted to be a boy. She wanted the advantages that being a boy brought you in life,” Durran told. And her costume choices for the film reflect this idea. Vests, button-down shirts, blazers, and neck-scarves populate Jo’s attire — common dress for boys at the time, but not exactly staples of the average 19century girl’s closet.
"We made duplicate costumes for them to wear in parallel, as if they were wearing each other's clothes," she shared. In the same way that friends today might exchange or borrow clothes on a whim, the bond between Jo and Laurie bleeds into every part of their lives, and the two swap outfits like any close friends would.
Even as we get glimpses into Jo’s adult life, Durran reveals, we can see that her early aesthetic has merged with her adult style, creating something the designer calls a more "proper and grown-up" version of her younger look. Despite the somewhat non-confirming approach to gendered clothing, you’re still not going to see Jo in trousers on the screen— but not because of the obvious reasons. As Durran simply puts it, “Trousers in the 1860s were pretty ugly.
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