They Invented the Supermodel

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They Invented the Supermodel
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These women were the first Black models to appear on magazine covers and in major ad campaigns and open runway shows — transforming the industry

Debra Shaw and Pat Cleveland. Photo: Rahim Fortune The only way to start this story — any story, really, about the American Supermodel — is with the Battle of Versailles. The one in 1973. On one side were the French, of course: designers Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan for Christian Dior. The other, American: Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Halston, Anne Klein. Each country’s fashion royalty at the time.

“My runway walk was something extra special. There was a lot of sass, oftentimes too much for some designers’ tastes, but in the end, it did set me way apart. I used to feel like the Josephine Baker of fashion. My own country did not celebrate my beauty and talent the way France did. Without France and its acceptance of me on countless runways and having my first magazine cover within a month of arriving there, I would not be where I am today.

Photographs by Rahim Fortune for The Cut “I think I’m a walking cartoon, really, because you have to have a sense of humor when you dress up. You can’t be too serious about it, even though it’s a very, very serious undertaking having the responsibility of wearing clothes for the first time.

“I remember a designer once said to me, ‘Oh, we saw another Black girl today. We like her. Do you mind if we use her?’ I was like, ‘Of course.’ I was always that cool Black girl who was open to other Black girls — not saying, ‘Oh, I don’t want her,’ or ‘I want to be the only one.’ That was just never my formula.” —Debra Shaw

Beverly Johnson on the cover of Vogue, 1974. Photo: Francesco Scavullo/Condé Nast/Shutterstock The women who ruled Versailles shoved open the fashion industry’s front door for fellow Black models who, up until then, had to fight to just barely squeeze through. Unsurprisingly, not everyone was thrilled or willing to welcome them, with many fashion brands, modeling agencies, photographers, and others happy to maintain the status quo of exclusion and exoticism.

“Before I got my CoverGirl contract, I modeled for five years, just doing editorial, being broke. And it was huge. I was the first ethnic woman. They had not put anybody who wasn’t white under contract before. CoverGirl, unlike Revlon, made sure the ads were in all of the magazines. My ads were not just in Black magazines; they were across the board. That hadn’t really happened. But CoverGirl did not compensate me equitably by any stretch of the imagination.

“I didn’t necessarily feel like I was ‘in competition’ with any other mixed-race models, but there was a sense of heightened stakes. There weren’t many of us at all. There was always a question in the back of my mind, like, What is it, exactly, that you want from me? Am I a trend? Or an oddity? We’d gravitate toward one another and compare notes. ‘How are they at this brand or that brand?’ There was definitely no road map.

On Tyra Banks ➼ Lapointe One-Shoulder Long-Sleeve Midi-Dress, at shopbop.com. Cartier Love Necklace, at Cartier boutiques nationwide.

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