A conversation with ‘Portico’ author Leah Koenig reveals the dishes of this culinary hotbed that is hiding in plain sight.
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When I asked Leah Koenig to take me on a virtual walk down the Via del Portico d’Ottavia, a single city block in Rome, I could tell even via our choppy video connection that her eyes lit up with delight. Koenig has spent the last three-plus years of her career steeped in the intricacies of Roman Jewish cuisine, and in the course of her research, she’s come to understand this street not only in its bustling present-day activities, but also in its past struggles.
JC: If we were visiting the Via del Portico d’Ottavia today, what would you want us to visit, look out for, and—of course—taste? LK: Apart from the Tempio Maggiore, the gorgeous synagogue, there's the Portico d’Ottavia, the ancient ruins of the fish market that the street is named after, which sits kitty-corner to the synagogue. This archway dates back thousands of years, and for much of that time it was where the Jews found a great deal of their sustenance during the Ghetto period.
Jews were also limited in what they could buy at the market. For example, they were not allowed to purchase the largest fish, which had to go to Christians. There was once a marble slab in the Ghetto fish market, and when a fish was flopped on top of it, if the head and tail went off either side, it was considered too large for Jews. So that's why you see a lot of anchovies and sardines in the Roman Jewish diet.
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