This down-home seafood dish from Marseille combines crunchy squid, garlic and parsley for an easy, flavorful meal:
Supions à la Provençale Better than bouillabaisse? This down-home seafood dish from Marseille is as flavorful as the city’s signature stew—and much, much easier to cook.
Everybody goes to Marseille for the bouillabaisse, but after a week in the Provençal capital, I can’t quite figure out why. Sure, the ruddy, saffron-scented soup is tasty and nourishing, but the experience struck me as more about style than substance—the sauces swirled with silver spoons, the solemn ladling of the broth, the oh-là-là filleting in plain view. Reader, it really is just fish stew.
Supions are small squid measuring some three inches in length. At down-home restaurants across the region, cooks sauté them with garlic and parsley until they’re deep brown and crunchy in spots. That crunch, as I’d learn at Restaurant Paule et Kopa, was as much about a quick dredge in flour as it was about the high flame. Behind the swinging door, I watched as a cook tossed the squid into a screaming-hot pan and then let them cook, undisturbed, for what seemed like an eternity.
Back home in my Madrid apartment, I futzed with the recipe until I had the best of both worlds: the crackly exterior from Paule et Kopa and the fearless garlickiness from Chez Etienne. And borrowing a page from the latter, I dumped the fried squid over a bed of lemony greens and threw on some croutons for crunch.
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