This restaurant is run by grandmothers. Customers clap for them each night.

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This restaurant is run by grandmothers. Customers clap for them each night.
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A Staten Island restaurant, run by women known as “nonnas of the world,” has become so popular, you can’t just walk in for a meal. Getting a table requires a reservation several weeks in advance.

Seeing strangers taste her culinary creations, she said, gives her immense pleasure and pride.

The nonnas come from around the world: Brazil, Argentina, Peru, Puerto Rico, Italy, Germany, Greece, Poland, Armenia, Sri Lanka, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Taiwan, India, Egypt, and Trinidad and Tobago. The list goes on. “The real story behind this place is grief; my own personal grief after losing a lot of my family, and trying to re-create them,” said Scaravella, 67, whose long gray beard and small oval glasses make him instantly recognizable around the St. George neighborhood. “That was what it was all driven by.”

“My whole life, I never wanted to go to an Italian restaurant, because it just never hit the spot,” he continued. “These ladies, they’re the source. They are the vessels that carry this information forward.”Given that his own matriarchs were gone, Scaravella embarked on a quest to find some nonnas who could prepare authentic, warming meals. He knew they wouldn’t take the place of his family, but he thought perhaps their food might help to fill the void.

The restaurant quickly took off. A few years later, Scaravella began inviting grandmothers from other cultures to cook their classics in his kitchen, and it got even busier.

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