Improved can product makes it worthy of special recipes, in addition to its familiar status as a lunchbox favorite
, or unwanted animals — especially dolphins — entangled in fishing gear. Since the 1950s, tuna fishing had been done primarily by casting massive nets that effectively captured large schools of tuna. But these purse seine nets also captured other species — notably, dolphins and sea turtles. By 1975, regulations put into effect under the law introduced “kill quotas” requiring the industry to minimize bycatch.
But the blow to the industry was not the only problem the tuna fleet was facing. The simple reality is that, as explained by Don George, Bumble Bee Tuna senior vice president, “processing tuna is extremely labor intensive,” and the real estate requirements necessary to accommodate it were major factors in the industry moving abroad.
The result was a seriously compromised product. Instead of solid masses of delicious tuna, consumers were greeted with what Wittenberg described as “mush in a can.” This “race to the bottom,” Wittenberg explained, had long-term results that, in hindsight, should have been predictable. But with the improved quality of the canned tuna available in America today, dishes at home in high-end restaurants in Turin, Italy, or the tapas bars of San Sebastian, Spain, are within reach. And it is even possible to kick up the tuna sandwich to heights I never would have thought possible, given the contents of my lunchbox.
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