Critic Bill Addison reviews Japanese-Peruvian restaurant Causita and the reincarnated Bar Moruno
. He had plenty of responsibilities but, as I’d come to learn, he’d happily materialize tableside to discuss his favorite subject.
Rápido, the small storefront, sits between the two restaurants. Old-world-leaning wines and top-notch tinned seafood line the walls; check out the smoked trout or tuna from Fishwife, a new favorite. Cheeses and European butters fill the small refrigerated selection, along with a handful of prepared salads. A big draw is bagels and handsome, crackly loaves from Santa Monica-based Jyan Isaac Bread, available Wednesday through Sunday.
In all cases, kick things off with anchovies. They bathe in olive oil, garnished with pickled onions and swirls of butter piped through the kind of fine nozzle you’d use to write “happy birthday” on a cake. Alongside I like a glass of Atxa Blanco vermouth, dry but not too dry, citrusy and spicy but nowhere approaching overkill with its mix of botanicals.
But the warm hummus and the mejadra, more commonly spelled mujaddara, in which rice and lentils mingle under a blanket of fried onions? They originate from the southwest Asian and northeast African swath of the Arab world, including the Syrian, Lebanese, Palestinian and Egyptian lexicons. Small details, perhaps, but respect for province matters.
Speaking of which: The only dish that felt like a miss was the restaurant’s most photographed one: chunks of grilled octopus arranged in a ring with an onslaught of sauces. Amid cascades of aioli and pools of strikingly purple olive emulsion, it’s the goat cheese-chorizo mousse that finally loses me.
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