Venice has become one of the most congested places in Italy, but those who want to enjoy its beauty and historic spots will find the back streets as profound as the well-known draws
By Tara Isabella Burton | Photographs by Arianna Lago for The Wall Street JournalInstead of hitting the touristy Doges Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, plan your itinerary around these charming neighborhoods our intensely crowd-averse writer has discovered.
If you’re willing to get a little lost and leave the thronging nexus of the San Marco area behind, there are few cities better for silence.Just a 15-minute walk past San Marco, you can wander the Castello area, a largely residential lattice of streets. Inevitably these streets lead to the Castello area’s de facto center, Via Garibaldi. On this street, the widest in Venice, side-by-side outdoor ciccheterias offer afternoon Aperol spritzes, snacks and small glasses of wine.Locals and visitors alike head to bars in the Fondamenta della Misericordia for an aperitif at sunset’s ‘golden hour.’Peaceful Parco delle Rimembranze, or Remembrance Park, has pine trees, grassy spaces and benches facing the water.
Across the Ponte dell’Accademia in the Dorsoduro neighborhood, the area behind the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute offers views of picturesque Giudecca Island to the south.A quick bus trip away, Giudecca has trattorias perfect for a casual lunch, minus the maddening crush in San Marco square.A glimpse of Venice as seen from Giudecca.
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