The Vetements RTW Spring 2020 show — held at a McDonald's in Paris — repeated many of its past ideas.
Fashion passed through the Golden Arches, with vegetarian designer Demna Gvasalia continuing his cynical observation of capitalist society at the Champs-Élysées branch of McDonald’s. The show notes — a list reading anatomic flip-flops, kapitalism, clothes 4 rent, and the like — were printed on napkins.
Repeating many of Gvasalia’s past ideas, the show, held in the heart of gilets jaunes territory, opened with a guy dressed in a navy riot squad uniform with gigantic shoulder pads, chunky protective boots and shin guards, throwing a fierce look from under the visor of a logo cap. Out came the usual parade of house classics going from spins on corporate dressing to motorcycling-inspired gear, a fetish element of Gvasalia’s design universe here reworked as protective hybrid leather boot pants with color-blocked protective padding for women and a stonewashed denim jumpsuit for men.
It was at times visually compelling, especially the models in smudged Halloween makeup, at times evoking a zombie Ronald McDonald, as if they’d walked straight out of an American teenage horror movie. Cases in point: the grungy-looking guy wearing an oversize tartan shirt over a striped long-sleeve T-shirt and stonewashed denim Bermuda shorts or a girl in a leopard-print stretch velvet dress with long flared sleeves.
But, mainly this running commentary on consumerist society — one told on new secondhand-looking clothes sprinkled with Vetements-ized spins on brand logos — felt déjà vu. Maybe for next time, it’s time to come up with some solutions?
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