Downshifting to three miles an hour accordions the days, Paul Salopek writes, nine years into his 24,000-mile storytelling odyssey across the world
, in the Great Rift Valley of Africa, the paradise of thorns where humankind was born.
Downshifting your life to three miles an hour accordions your days: New Year’s anniversaries, sunsets, summers, your ephemeral body’s unmistakable signs of aging—all the usual calendars dissolve. They begin to seem arbitrary. They lose meaning. Instead, you wander deeper and deeper into what might be called sacramental time: an eternal present, where the past and even the future can comfortably coexist. You inch by swarming megacities. You see them rise. You glance again and imagine them fall. Call it a state of profound equanimity. Call it madness. You end up mailing the house key back. Walking continents does this..
Friends invite Salopek to a wedding in Islamabad, Pakistan, on condition that he wear a shalwar kameez, the traditional male garb.Every day spent trekking along one of the world’s busiest, noisiest, most chaotic trade arteries ages you at least a month.
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