Want Better Spaghetti alle Vongole? Stop Packing It Full of Clamshells

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Want Better Spaghetti alle Vongole? Stop Packing It Full of Clamshells
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For the right balance of clams and pasta, it's best to de-shell a few and toss in a few whole ones for garnish.

Man, what I really want is to have a bunch of little rocks scattered throughout these noodles.

I know there are possible rebuttals here. One might argue, for instance, that if I object to clamshells in my pasta, I must also object to them in other dishes, like paella and seafood stews. I'd counter that the shell interacts with broth-y dishes and rice dishes very differently than with pasta, since the shell can scoop up the liquid and rice grains. Shells and long strands of noodle, on the other hand, don't so much as talk to each other on the plate.

with clams and white wine added. All of the basic principles behind aglio e olio, therefore, apply to this dish as well. Back to the covered pan: We have our clams, wine, oil, garlic, and chili flakes all simmering away, the clams popping open one by one as they go to a better. I like to pluck them out and transfer them to a bowl as they open, to avoid overcooking the open clams while waiting for the others to catch up. A lot of people say you shouldn't eat clams that don't open. This is not true: A shut-tight clam is, if anything, the most vigorous and lively one in the pot.

, but here I'd err on the side of less salt, given the brininess of the clams. You may have to add a little salt to the pasta later if the clams don't end up adding enough salt on their own, but that's a better option than having to choke down ruined food.

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