Fashion week's Spring 2023 shows saw a decrease in plus-size representation since 2020. Industry experts weigh in on why.
, that number doesn't always make for the strongest, most accurate metric, as it can easily be inflated when "a brand like 11 Honoré hosts a show with an all-curve number or deflated when a certain in-demand model is, say,." Still, it's one of the few ways we talk about size inclusivity at fashion week — and it's certainly the most visible.
Fashion week is often seen as an indicator of what's "hot" versus "not." Many online have been sounding the alarm on the rise of early aughts aesthetics, like Y2K and indie sleaze, and how they're also resurfacing harmful societal notions associated with those eras, such as "" and thigh-gapping thinness.
on TikTok alone. The discourse questioned whether brands are communicating to customers that their bodies are just not "on trend""Sometimes it feels like we're going two steps forward then one step back," says Conor Kennedy, founder of New York-based agency Muse Models. "The runway will always be a part of the industry that's so symbolic because we're naturally going to look to it to see what's happening.
Part of the issue is rooted in a brand's creative direction for the season. Many lack or won't develop samples that fit a range of bodies — so, when a model and their agent come into the equation near the end of the process, right before a collection makes its debut on the runway, it's a non-starter.
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