'Once I had ingested a pearl, a new virtual world would open. Whatever I actually ate hardly mattered.'
Illustration: George Peters On the fourth floor of the James Beard House in Greenwich Village, a kind of epicenter for the American culinary world, I was directed to the seat where I was to eat dinner: a swivel chair facing a wall. I was told that I could move around as much as I’d like and that I could stand, but I was advised not to walk around. Then someone handed me a virtual-reality headset.
“At the dinner party of the future,” this man said, “silverware will be obsolete.” With that, he cupped his hands around the vessel, lifted it to his lips, tilted his head back, and let the red pearl slide into his mouth. He instructed me to do the same. I’ll never know what the actual food I ate looked like, but within Casalegno’s VR world, the orbs are meant to mimic the sensation of eating the ingredients. Some were translucent; one looked like a shrunken pomegranate or maybe the exposed cross section of a tiny planet.
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