Though the menu is firmly rooted in Michelin-geared tradition, Russell Jackson and his staff pull ingredients and techniques from around the world
Chef Russell Jackson at his new restaurant, Reverence. Photo: Christian Rodriguez On a recent weeknight, with Frederick Douglass Boulevard still glistening from a rainstorm, a petite, middle-aged woman was being waved away from a small restaurant, Reverence, a new 18-seat spot in West Harlem run by a chef named Russell Jackson. The woman didn’t realize a reservation was needed to eat there.
Neighbors aren’t the only ones curious to see what Jackson is up to. The chef, who spent the majority of his 36-year career in California, is largely unknown in New York, yet Reverence is the kind of ambitious, multicourse-tasting-menu-only restaurant — where dinner clocks in just under $100 per head and must be paid for in advance — that’s typically opened once a chef or owner has the cultural currency to entice New Yorkers.
While Lafitte was built on excess, Reverence is noticeably lean. Jackson says it cost a fraction less than $500,000 to open. A bedazzled skull and handful of tropical plants are about the extent of “décor,” and the industrial, open kitchen makes it clear that the experience is all about the food. Uni, from Peru, arrives under a blanket of soft white rice that’s cooked with shiso butter. A final savory course is a nod to San Francisco Zuni Cafe, and chef Judy Rodgers’s revered roast chicken: a boneless chicken breast, roasted with skin on, served with frisée, cubes of toasted sourdough, and a dressing made with the chicken’s fat.
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