'Pescado zarandeado is an ecosystem of tastes and textures: jagged, soft, sweet and smoky, with hidden, meat-filled gullies that demand excavation' writes BillAddison
Amid the lush outdoor setting of 106 Seafood Underground, Sergio Peñuelas stands front and center in a semi-open-air kitchen housed in a small structure near the restaurant’s entrance. He moves between a small counter and the stove, sculpting pyramids of ceviche one minute and then tossing shrimp in garlicky butter the next.
reflection of itself. He brushes over a mixture of mayonnaise, spices and sauces. The swirl turns pinkish-orange but seeps down invisibly after the fish lands on the grill, secured in a wire basket. When I’m sated with the fish’s primary range of flavors, I reach for tortillas and start building tacos.
I swung by in early 2020 on a day that 106 was advertised as open but ended up being closed. The transformation of the space in the cruel two years since then calls forth a word I rarely use as a writer: magical. Diners who know the menu at Coni’Seafood will recognize the gist of many dishes. Diced mango, as exact in form as a series of pixels, covers a mound of shrimp ceviche also dotted with chopped cucumber and tomato. The heap rumbles with lemon and Worcestershire sauce. Peñuelas also crafts a novel ceviche scattered with green apple; its tart marinade, blaring lime, is particularly refreshing on a warm afternoon.
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