Hearty portions of pork and fish washed down with beer or rum are the traditional staples of Barbados — but things are changing
“You’re going to eat like a Bajan today. We don’t stop until our waistlines stretch,” says Paulette de Gannes to the group of us standing in Bridgetown’s Independence Square. With Paulette, from, as our guide we’re about to embark on a walk, stopping at restaurants, markets, food trucks and more on a three-hour culinary marathon. “Bajans love their food,” says Paulette laughing. “Eating the way we do in this heat, you start to feel heavy and slow. You’re going to want to sleep.
Our first stop, Tim’s Restaurant, is a casual joint above a pawnshop. Perching on stools on the balcony, we devour a mound of well-seasoned pork, marinated overnight in turmeric, paprika and scotch bonnet peppers, with pickled cucumber and cassava. “You’re not eating like a Bajan unless you’re eating pork — with starchy root vegetables,” Paulette says. “Chicken is the thing we eat most, pork is the thing we like most — fish is just there.
Our next stop is more low key, a tiny market on the beach at Pile Bay, on the outskirts of the capital. As we arrive, a small boat approaches the shore and two men — one clad in a wetsuit — jump out onto the sand. Ian Watt, a spear fisherman, tells us he’s been out since 5am, diving to around 100ft for parrot chub. “I give thanks if I go out with nothing and come back with something,” he says. The ‘something’ he shows me is shimmering and rainbow-hued.
As I continue on to the east coast, it’s easier to get a sense of the island’s agricultural heritage and the handful of innovative projects looking to the future of food production. With most of the land given over to sugarcane crops for centuries, Barbados has never been self-sufficient — a problem highlighted during Covid lockdowns and that it’s now seeking to address.Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.is a 108-acre project run on biodynamic principles.
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