When Oscar-winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter signed on to outfit the stars of Netflix’s upcoming dramedy “Dolemite Is My Name,” she did it with the caveat that the costumes themselves wouldn’t serve as just another punchline in the story.
”) has crafted period costumes for almost a dozen films — including the ’70s-specific movies “Crooklyn” and “What’s Love Got to Do With It” — the wardrobe for “Dolemite” was more exaggerated and over-the-top than anything she’s constructed since 2009’s blaxploitation parody “Black Dynamite.”
“I noticed all of the costume changes that he had, and had an illustrator sit down and look at every angle of the costumes and illustrate them,” said Carter. “That took some time.”She also referenced her vast stores of ’70s fashion magazines including Ebony, Esquire and the now-defunct Eleganza catalog.
“And all of it was custom made because it’s really hard to [find] ’70s vintage and make it really look like Dolemite,” she said. “Dolemite/Rudy Ray Moore was so interesting in his costume choices that we tried to do it exactly the way he did it so we had to build everything.” Distinguishing Rudy Ray Moore’s style from his alter ego Dolemite’s required Carter to flesh out separate aesthetics for the two different personas. “There were two characters that were kind of happening simultaneously,” said Carter. “Sometimes [Moore] went to meetings and interviews dressed as Dolemite and other times, especially in the beginning, he was just Rudy.”While Moore’s style was already distinctive, Dolemite’s pimp culture-inspired wardrobe was outré even by ’70s standards.
“Everybody had their thing in the ’70s,” she said. “When you think to what was popular among black culture it was [1973’s] ‘The Mack’ and John Shaft [of 1971’s ‘Shaft’] and so the black community emulated a lot of the looks in those films. And white people for the most part were into other aspects of the ’70s.
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